This is a prototyping question for some of you seasoned experts…
Is there a way to “officially” by a known-good specification prototype on a Veroboard for the BBB?
For instance, I attempted what I thought was going to be an easy task. NOT so easy...
I have some larger Veroboards ordered but I wanted to get some valuable feedback on these types of instances and builds.
Many Capes and daughter cards for the BBB are not Veroboards but they are Perfboards with headers.
I found a Schmart Board for a BBB with a footprint similar to what I thought I needed. The company and people at Schmart Board made the prototyping board. Neat and tidy is all I can say.
It is a valuable asset and it is a Veroboard too. Although it is a nice board for prototyping, I am one row short of being able to use 2.54mm spaced holes at 7.62mm apart. It is a 8 * 2 socket I purchased that I am trying to work into this build.
The socket handles a couple of chips. 16 PDIP chips can be used with this specific socket or something of the same “apart spacing” and 2.54 spacing of the pins but with less than 8 places.
Aw heck, here is a photo instead of me describing it any longer:
The extra solder are what I call trace making. The traces made by me are done and completely a waste of time. Hand making traces is so 1943.
Anyway, you see what I have done and can return service with more ideas based on what I have done. If you see another route for the proto board making for the BBB, please jump in here.
The underneath section of this specific proto board has globs of trace marks where I attempted to make connections of holes to holes only. Not a bright idea but it is done…
Back in the old days I used wire wrap on vector board. Not sure if that stuff is even available any more. It was sockets for the dip packages, back then you would look mean at a cmos chip and it would blow a hole in the junction. However, you very easily swapped it out for a fresh one since it was a socket.
Also, these “new” plug in boards are junk. The ones we used many years ago actually made good connections and were tight for for even 1/8w resistors. At one time resistors and capacitors had wire leads for the attachment. I got some new ones from amazon and the “dupont” wires just wobble around.
Also had solder pins that would be inserted and wires soldered on the bottom side. That worked good for the old school stuff.
And yes to those dupont style connectors, they always-always-always give me trouble.
There are better connectors out in the world. The single line, four pin motor wires never really connect all that well with those types…unless the right type of female pin is used. They need to be larger than what most people think or know.
Now, have I configured a dupont connection correctly in the last two years? No…I moved on to other connections and connectors.
I found some good ones called TE Connectivity AMP and they are part numbered 1375820-2 from the mfg. Probably obsolete now but once they ruled! 2.54mm 2-3-4-5 pins single row.
And Yes
I was thinking of soldering some wiring to the header junction of the pins being utilized. I have not made it that far yet. I may just get some other types of connectors. It gets tricky and quickly.
On those 40 pin headers of the bby-ai you can use the RPI-cable. Only thing is the pin labels are not correct.
If my memory is correct my Dad called that last one a rats nest, he would be shaking his head if he was still around. He always had is stuff looking like, perfect. Every wire was nice and neat, back then it was soldered, tacked on copper foils.
Seriously breadboards and the various proto boards are only useful for very simple stuff and of course only useful for through hole parts on a 0.1" pitch.
These days i would just design a pcb. While it may take a little longer you will save time in the long run, plus if you are going to make more than just a one off is the only solution. I have made quite a few prototype pcbs and if getting dhl delivery can get them in as little as a wee from China. Of course the dhl delivery usually costs more than the pcbs. If in no rush then normal post can be very cheap.
small less than 2x3" double sided, i’ll just make a batch of lime in the coconut enchant and make them myself, got one of those cheap CNC to do the drilling and board cutouts.
There’s a blue iron on laser printer film for making your own small boards for when you need it right now. The results can be ok as long as the track spacing isnt too tight and if you’re very careful.
You cant beat a proper board though, they can save a lot of time in the long run.
I think I found some Veroboard types for prototyping that can handle my set up needs.
I have an almost identical couple of needs that this board can provide.
7.62mm spacing with connections to the outside edges of the 7.62mm on opposing sides is what I need. So, the left and right sides of the chip, ULN2003A along with the socket, should be populated with traces for further and easier testing.
I have not ordered them yet, i.e. as I think I can find a better solution like many of you have already mentioned. making a board for the build…
I will attempt this slowly, e.g. as I am not well versed in board build up on PSpice and/or KiCAD.
I found some reasonable prices out and about for the bring up and build. I am just not at that point yet to have a fully built board on my own behalf without further testing on my part.
Seth
P.S. But! I will be researching ideas…
For instance:
a. Would a single sided board built need a ground plane or would I use traces?
b. I will keep researching these ideas in time.
Seth here. So and yeppers, I am messing with KiCAD for the build now. I am taking your advice and trying to build some BBB Cape with what KiCAD had available.
Two layer PCB with specifics for attaching to the BBB and all while utilizing ULN2003 parts.
I am still new at PCB building, i.e. so PCBWay is not accepting of the build so far.
I need to make the header attach to the pins in question but in KiCAD, the Via marks and holes in the Cape are not being attached properly, i.e. oversight or newly found issues for me.
Anyway, I am going to keep trying. PCBWay has very reasonable prices for some reason…
I use JLCPCB, at least for me in the UK they come out a bit chepaer. Have made quite a few boards, mostly 4 layer, some with component assembly as well. Did have an issue once where they did not add any of the drill holes even though the correct file was uploaded. Still they made me a new set at no cost so can’t complain.
Never tried PCBway, but I know they are also popular.
KiCad is great although both PCBway and JLCPCB use a web based design software which can make things easier when ordering, but I prefer to have more control over my files.
Did you see if you do New Project from Template in KiCad, it has a BeagleBone cape template
I have known about it for years and years but never utilized it, i.e. as it takes me forever to apply myself in any condition.
I ordered five, i.e. as that is their lowest number allowed for built boards. It is a two layer board with connections/traces to/from the ULN2003.
Update…
I am actually seeing now how much I can do or could have done in the past. I passed up some valuable timing schemes with nothingness.
Anyway, over it now. I was reviewing their ease of access on KiCAD and found that it is easier than expected. It took me a while to conquer the KiCAD software ideas…
I had to reach out on the forum:
I cannot access the headers on the Cape template. I mean, I can access them but not add traces to/from them.
If you have space on your board always good to add some extra bits for easy wiring points in case you need to mod it. You can add a 2 pin header foot print inline with the tack, with the track going through both holes. That gives you a convenient place to cut the track and 2 easy solder points for modding. If that makes sense, but it kind of depends how complicated the design is.