Use through-hole 1/8" audio connectors

Hi,

I recommend to consider using a through-hole part for the audio in and
audio out instead of the current surface mount part. They rip off very
easily if you tug on the cable. It happened to one of my students, and
then it happened to me on a different board.

https://ccrma.stanford.edu/~eberdahl/ThroughHole.jpg

Thanks.
- Edgar

We will take it under consideration. If we can find a way to remove cost in other areas, we may be able to move to those types of connector. However, we have had only about five cases of these being ripped off in the 22,000 boards we have shipped. So, in the mean time, I suggest you be as careful as you can when putting downward pressure when plugging in or removing these connectors. If this cannot be done, then you might want to consider putting the board in case to add more support.

Gerald

I have been using the 3.5 mm phone jacks that have the two location pins in them
with no problems. Just don’t remember which version is on Beagleboard nor my manufacturer.

As the first aid I propose using two component epoxy glue (such as “standard” Araldit) to support the connector. Here less is more - a minimum amount of glue but around the whole connector body - and if the position pins are there also on them. For maximum strength the glue must cure for 24 hours. Mild heat (no more than 75 centigrades) further helps. After this treatment the board will break before the connector comes off! I never measured the conductivity of cured epoxy, but if my memory serves me right, it is an excellent insulator. The glue application should be done in a minute or two after mixing the resin and accelerator components.

You can also try soldering the connector back to its place. Slightly tricky but not impossible. Good training for eye-hand coordination…

siñ

I have been using the 3.5 mm phone jacks that have the two location pins in them
with no problems. Just don't remember which version is on Beagleboard nor my manufacturer.

As the first aid I propose using two component epoxy glue (such as "standard" Araldit) to support the connector. Here less is more - a minimum amount of glue but around the whole connector body - and if the position pins are there also on them. For maximum strength the glue must cure for 24 hours. Mild heat (no more than 75 centigrades) further helps. After this treatment the board will break before the connector comes off! I never measured the conductivity of cured epoxy, but if my memory serves me right, it is an excellent insulator. The glue application should be done in a minute or two after mixing the resin and accelerator components.

You can also try soldering the connector back to its place. Slightly tricky but not impossible. Good training for eye-hand coordination...

Or reuse the other one: http://www.flickr.com/photos/koenkooi/2475622891/

(yes, I'm one of the 5 people that broke it)